I am a little confused about the yardage page. I would like to make the Louis XV like the pattern cover photo. I’m not sure which jabot pattern piece(s) is needed. Are all 3 pieces used to create the “jabot horn”?
The jabot in the photo cover page is made using 3 separate pattern pieces. There will be 2 hidden seams. These pieces are labeled A, B and C. Section C is the effect of the horn. What is called the Horn pattern on the yardage page is the horn used to hide seams on the valance (this horn is shown in the drawing at the top of the yardage page). You do not need that horn for the jabot.

I need to alter the depth of the jabot, how can I do it?
This jabot is cut in three pieces. It is also cut on curves and other angles. It is a complicated jabot. We cannot instruct you on alterations.

You say this jabot can’t be altered but I need it to be longer. How can I accomplish that?
WE CANNOT GIVE YOU INSTUCTIONS FOR ALTERATIONS!

I know you say the jabot can’t be altered, but I need it to be shorter. How do I accomplish that?
WE CANNOT GIVE YOU INSTRUCTIONS FOR ALTERATIONS IN ANY WAY, SHAPE, OR FORM!

How wide is the jabot across the board line?
7”.

Can I successfully use a stripe fabric for the lining on the jabot?
No. Stripes will hang at a variety of angles on the face fabric as well as the lining.

I stitched the jabot across the board line, securing the pleats. I am now trying to place it on a pole but the pleats don’t lay right. What is wrong?
Remove the stitching across the board line. Place the jabot on the pole, allow the pleats to “give” a little to adapt to the contour of the pole.

Why do you say the valance repeat can be no smaller than 42” wide?
The design is too ornate to bring it down more than 42”. This is also why larger windows needing two repeats must be at least 84” wide. You can redraw the shape to eliminate some of the curves, or use pattern 9250 (CP-9 or CP-10).

I don’t want my valance to jut outward. How do I alter the pattern for a straight board?
You don’t need to alter anything. Simply cut your board straight. Your valance needs to finish in width to fit the board, plus returns, if you want them.

I will be making this treatment on a bay window. Would I need to use legs in the corner of the bay window?
No legs are needed at the corners of the bay. Make the valance as one piece with a repeat ending and starting at the corners.

I am having trouble with the valance puckering around the board curves.
Clipping is very important, to allow the fabric to cling to the board edge. If this doesn’t eliminate the problem, you probably have puckering in your sewing.

My client has purchased 3” wide bullion fringe to use as the trim. I do not think the trim will work for the valance, but could it be used for the jabot?
It could be used for the valance better than it can be used for the jabot. The yardage page tells you not to use a deep trim on the jabot and horn. It wouldn’t be my choice for the valance either.

What stiffener do you recommend we use in a soft cornice like the Louis valance?
A soft cornice should look “soft”. In my opinion using a stiffener makes it look like you couldn’t afford a “real” cornice. A few ripples are appropriate. If the fabric is flimsy, use the fabric stabilizer (available from M’Fay Patterns or Rowley Co.) Also use an interlining and lining. Black out lining is an excellent choice.

Should I use batting on the board for the Louis XV valance? I am cutting the board out as the pattern shown. Do I pull the fabric tightly and staple it around the points and curves?
This is a soft cornice unless you are doing an upholstered cornice??
A soft cornice has no batting and is attached only at the top and sides of the board with a loose fit. Instructions for an upholstered cornice are in our “Manual Collection”.