What is the difference in this Empire Pole Swag, and your other Empire Pole Swags 9245 and 9246?
Swag depth and different jabots.
This valance looks too complicated for me. Can I return it?
A pattern can always be returned (to our office only) if it is in original condition. There is a 20% restocking fee.
POLE MOUNT, BOARD MOUNT???
Is pattern #9244 the same as #9001? (only mounted) Are the pieces the same shapes? Do I need to purchase #9001?
You can’t do a board mount with 9244. You need 9001. Other Empire valances (different depths) are 9234 and 9284.
I am having problems with your Empire valance pattern. I am using the pattern for board mounted valances and I am needing to make an open Empire to be mounted on a pole. I need to know how different the patterns are and if I can use the board pattern.
The board mount pattern can’t be used for a pole mount. There are too many differences for me to try to describe. The only way you can use it as a board mount is to make separate flat sections to place behind the droop area.
ALTERATIONS
How can I alter the swags?
We cannot give you instructions to alter the swag in width or depth. To go beyond the sizes given would require the shape and size of the patterns and the pleat angels to change. There is no formula for a quick fix.
Can I alter the jabot?
Yes, alterations are included.
Can I alter the swag droop area?
No, pleat angles would have to change. You can make a separate “scoop” shape fabric piece to tack behind the swag. It will look like a part of the swag.
RINGS, MEDALLIONS AND TABS
Can I mount this valance with rings?
No, there is too much bulk at the top. Our Kingston Pole Swag, 9203, would work best for that.
Hi, I have ordered a number of your patterns and love them. Can you tell me how to make the Empire valance to be hung on medallions instead of a board or rod?
The Empire doesn’t adapt well to medallions because of the wide span of pleats at the top. The Kingston Pole Swag 9203 is similar and works well for medallions. Instructions are in the package.
I have done several valances using your pattern for the Empire valance mounted on a board. I now have a customer who would like one on a pole but with a tab heading. Can you Empire Pole Swag pattern be modified to accommodate tabs and if so how would I modify the pattern?
We have an Empire Pole Swag pattern 9244 but it cannot hang with tabs. The 9203 Pole Swag can hang with tabs. The instructions come with it.
SWAG SIZE
I do not understand how to figure for my swag size. Please explain that to me.
Click on to “How to read the yardage page“ on our website and scroll down to “ figuring swag size”. This is explained in detail.
The yardage info sheet states: If you are using jabots, subtract 11” from the pole measurement and then divide into equal units. My question - subtract 11” for each side or 11” total? I ask only because dividing 11 in half would mean the jabot width (at the top - the part that stitches to the pole) would only be 5.5” and that doesn’t seem proportionate to me. 11” for each side sounds right.???
Subtract 11” total (5 1/2” each side).
I notice that the instructions say that one has to stay within a swag width range of 14” to 20”. I am doing a treatment for series of windows that are right next to each other and the swag width would have to be 36”. Can I adjust this pattern or is there another you recommend I use?
No, the swag size must stay within the range stated. You should use two 18” swags. We don’t have a similar pattern that size.
FABRIC
I am working with a plaid. I know I need to start the horns and jabots with the same area on the pattern. Where do I line up the swags? Or is that not necessary?
It’s not necessary. Simply place each pattern piece on the area of the fabric you wish to display. Don’t worry about seams.
Should I interline silk?
Yes, silk is a very fragile fabric that tends to get brittle from the sun. Interlining will help to protect it.
JABOT
Can I switch to a different jabot?
Yes, you would make the necessary deductions for the jabot you use.
I want to put the jabots from the 9244 on the ends of the 9246. Do I connect the jabots to the swags or put them on separately?
You can do it either way. Separate is my choice.
I am working on the Empire Pole swag pattern because of the 24” drop, but using a jabot like pattern 9244. If my window is 106” wide, do I subtract the width of the jabot (6 to 8”) then add back at least 1 1/2” at each end for overlap of swag by the jabot, then divide by 5 to determine how wide each swag should be.
106” - 6 + 6=94 +1 1/2” + 1 1/2” = 97” divided by 5 = 19 1/2”
Another way to ask my question - does the jabot need to overlap the swag by only 1 1/2”?
If you are using 9246 swag and 9244 jabot, you need to follow the math for the 9244.
I’m getting ready to tackle 9244, with jabots but am using 9245 also because she wants a 22” drop. I am using a stripe so the jabot is problematic because she is adamant that the stripes are vertical on the “bell” I know the way this is cut the leading edge will show slantly stripes. I wrote before and was told to substitute any other jabot. My question is this...Would I just leave the swag hanging free under the jabot or attach the jabot in some way? Can I just finish off the edge of the swag by turning it in?
End with a swag hanging free under the jabot.
The 18”-20” drop pattern 9244 has a jabot that requires quite a bit of space on the pole, the 22” drop pattern 9245 looks and reads like it only takes a 2” deduction instead of a 11” deduction, is this correct?
Yes, the jabots are different widths. You should always follow the math for the jabot you are using.
YARDAGE
I want to know if this pattern is cut in pieces and not one piece on the fold. I bought a vogue pattern that was similar to this pattern but it required to cut the fabric on fold all one piece. My fabric is only 54” wide and it is paisley print so there is no way to cut one continuous piece. Before I waste more money I want to be sure of the pattern. My window is 42” wide and I have 4 yards of fabric, would this be enough for this swag?
Yes, the pieces are cut separately. You can get the yardage page off our website. Read the top portion of the page to understand the design. The yardage below gives the pattern sizes so you can determine how they will fit on your fabric. From our website you can also read how to understand and figure yardage, if you need it.
CUTTING
If I have to cut the swag fabric on the uprights should I still cut the interlining on the bias?
Yes
I have a large print fabric. What should I do about matching at the seams?
Don’t worry about the seams, they won’t show. Display the fabric on each piece.
RETURN
I am having trouble understanding the jabot pattern piece. On the side where it states that you cut here for different returns, I’m assuming that the 5 1/2 is where I should cut when using the jabot pattern.
The returns are explained on page 2 of the instruction book. There is also a section “Understanding the Pattern”. It is very important to read everything.
I just purchased your Empire Pole Swag pattern and I am having trouble understanding the directions on doing the returns. I’m not sure how I am supposed to attach it to my pole. I have finials on the end of my pole. It says cut a hole, but how far down do I do this from the top of the return? I don’t want to ruin my fabric.
The bottom of page 2 explains the return situation. You can use a return only if it can wrap around the end of the pole and then reach the wall. This means you will have to punch a hole in the return so the finial screw can go through the fabric and then into the pole. You will have to mark for the hole according to what your pole and finial needs. This is NOT a cut, it is just a hole.
Can 9244 return go to the wall or does it stay in front of pole? Designer would like return to wall.
The return can go to the wall if it also wraps around the end of the pole. In order for the return to fit under the pole and to the wall, a “cut out” would have to be made to fit the pole. Those instructions and patterns are in our Workroom Manual.
I am using a 2” wood pole with standard wood brackets. I am using the return instead of the jabots and having a problem with the slit area and the part that goes upon the pole. It seems like I need to cut further down into the pleated fabric of the return and that doesn’t seem right. I measured from the front of the pole to the wall to get my return measurement. Is that correct? According to your pattern I should only have to slit the return where the band is applied. That is not deep enough.
The slit is for the band only. This pattern does not offer a custom cut out for the return to fit under the pole. If that is what you are trying to do. Please read the last paragraph on page 2. To use the return this way you can not use the wood bracket. You could use an “L” bracket. You can not use a return with the wood bracket without doing a custom “cut out”.
Do you have to use the return portion on the jabot pattern? My jabot will hang on top of the side window trim and not along side of it. I realize this is not typical but I have an obstruction that I need to work around.
In other words you don’t need a return. This is explained at the bottom of page 2.
It says to cut it at the 2” line and just fold it back but that was for the simple return. It doesn’t say anything about the jabot.
It applies to both. A return is a return whether it is on the jabot or not.
I must construct the valance with a 8” return...I am using a 4’ wide, 3” fluted wood pole with brackets and finials. Is there a way to make return without removing the finial and punching a hole thru the fabric as the pattern advises?
The only thing you can do is a custom “cut out” so the return can fit under the pole and continue to the wall.
Please explain how various brackets effect the return.
“L” brackets can be hidden behind a swag or horn. The return can wrap around the end of the pole and attach to the bracket or the wall. When using decorative brackets, they usually wrap around, hugging the pole. Those brackets must be placed beyond the valance, therefore more pole space is needed. A “custom cut-out” return is needed. This will allow the return to place under the pole to reach the wall. Instructions and patterns for these returns are in our Manual Collection.
STYLE
I have the Napoleon pattern, but I don’t want to use it. Can the Empire Pole Swag be adjusted in any way to look somewhat like the Napoleon?
No the Napoleon has to be open behind the horn (part way). The Empire can’t do that.
DECKING, BANDING, AND TRIM
What is the best application for applying banding on the 9244 Empire....Wrapped or Applied? The banding needs to be at least 2 1/2”. Is wrapped the best application and therefore incorporates the decking need also.
Because the pieces are not straight, you can’t wrap it to the other side. You will have to cut the banding to the shape of each piece. Follow instructions for intricate banding on page 4E-2 of the Workroom Manual. You will need the banding on back also unless you have a contrast lining.
Is there any reason why I shouldn’t apply the fringe trim to the swags, horns, and jabots before I attach the lining? I noticed that the directions say to apply it after the lining and face fabric are joined, but the fringe I have is just regular fringe, so I think it would look better with the selvage hidden. However, I don’t want to apply it between the lining and the face fabric if there’s a reason I shouldn’t.
If you want the trim to actually be inserted into the bottom seam, yes, you should sew or baste it to the valance before sewing the lining.
If I’m putting bouillon fringe to the bottom do I still need to use the decking?
No, you don’t need the decking.
FABRIC BULK
I am making the Empire Pole Swag with lining and interlining. What can I do with all this bulk?
Bulk must be dealt with during the sewing process. Complete instructions are in our “Manual Collection”.
Actually it’s Step #10 and the note by the light bulb, I’m confused about. Am I suppose to machine stitch the edges that will be pleated 3/4” from the edge? It still is an awful lot of bulk and I don’t think my Juki will penetrate it without breaking a needle.
The suggestion above Step 10 will help a great deal, but you may have used an inappropriate fabric. The pleat stack up can’t handle that much bulk. You may have to hand sew.
I’m a little confused about Step #14, 15, and 16 on this pattern. I don’t understand what to do with all of that bulk from the pleats.
Step 14 tells you to trim the tips of the pleats to be even with the seam line. This is on the back side of the swag.
Step 15 is simply sewing across the pleats to secure.
Step 16 is a strip of fabric or twill tape that can accept the velcro at Step 18.
The horns are not actually placed until Page 13, after the swags are on the pole. This is so the horns can fit better on the curve of the pole.
STRIPS AND VELCRO
I’m about ready to apply the extensions to the swag/horn sections. According to the directions it says to sew the velcro to the “back” of the strip. It looks like it is sewn to the top most edge of the strip on the front side of the treatment, not the under side of the extension. Is that correct? If so, does the strip fold under the front of the treatment once it is adhered to the velcroed pole. There is not much as to attaching the treatment regarding the velcro on the pole itself (mainly page 13). Do you just center the horn on the marking you’ve made and then adhere the velcro at that point?
I assume what you are calling “the extensions” are the strips of fabric described in Steps 16 and 17? Step 18 tells you to sew the velcro to the back of the valance fabric strips. This also means the back of the valance. Do not turn the strip under, it is enough support for the velcro.
I’m’ using a 1 3/8” pole how wide should these strips be? A 1 1/2” wide I barely have enough to wrap around the raw edge. You mention not overlapping the 1/2” stitching line. Is this the front and the back? Also, when I’m adding the strip to hide the raw edge, do I need to fold back a seam on the strip in the back? This will add more bulk to the area and it’s thick now with the interlining which I did cut away some of it.
Please look at page 11, above Step 17. The strip extends beyond the edge. It does not wrap under. Use the extended edge to attach velcro or staple there. The only time you wrap the strip is IF you need to for the return (Step 17).
PLEATS AND HORNS
I’m trying to put the empire together now and I am using the returns. My question is the pleat in the return does it go into the horn?
Please look at the sketch at the bottom of page 13. It shows arrows for the pleat on each side of the horn. The pleat will overlap the return on one side, the swag on the other.
What is the best way to and when is the best time to transfer the pleat markings onto the valance on this pattern?
Just before pinning the pleats.
I recently did this Empire Pole Swag for a friend/customer and I contrast lined the horns. My question to you is it normal to see some of the white lining on the horn, there are no under treatments yet but there will be shutters in the near future, standing back looking at the treatment you don’t see any lining but sitting at the breakfast room table you do. My friend doesn’t want them to look too fixed so she won’t let me tack the horns together but the lining seems to bother her. She said she had a decorator in her home last night and she absolutely said you should not see the white lining. If you are standing under the treatment or sitting down looking up I don’t see how you would see the lining in a case like this should you always contrast line the entire horn.
If you contrast lined the horns I don’t understand why you see white lining on the horn. It must be the lining on the swag beyond the horn seam you see. The weight of the swag can cause the horn to open up sometimes. Your options are to self or contrast line everything or to tack the horn seam together. Or you could deck the swag. It is accepted in the profession to tack the horn.
BAY WINDOWS
How do I figure my swag size for a Bay Window?
You must plan for a horn to be at the inside corners of the bay. This means swags will probably be different sizes. Deduct 1 1/2” (or whatever your jabot needs) from each outside end only. Go in-between the lines on the pattern to get an exact size. It is a good idea to install the pole first and then measure for swag space areas.
I have done some figuring for the 9244 in a bay window. If the center pole is 70 1/4”, four swags will be 17 1/2” each. If the side poles are 40” and I subtract 1 1/4” from each, leaving 38 3/4”, I can make two swags that are 19 3/8”. Will there be a noticeable difference in the center and side swags?
You are figuring it correctly. No, you won’t notice the difference in the size swags. Don’t forget that once you install the pole your measurements will be different than those taken on the wall. This is because of the projection. You may already know this but it is best to install the pole then measure again before making the valance.
When figuring for swags and you come up with a number like 18.37”, do you try to cut it for 18” or 18 1/4” or 18 /38” or how do you round up or down and what do you do with the leftover fractions?
You should always go between the lines to get the exact swag size. If you need 3/8” or 1/4”, go there.
CORNER WINDOWS
I am interested in purchasing the Empire Pole Swag pattern and am wondering if it would work for a corner window (basically, my window wraps around so there is a large paneled window looking out one direction and another smaller window on the other wall that runs perpendicular to the larger window). If you think that this will work, is it possible to explain how I would change the pattern appropriately.
You can’t change the pattern. A corner window is no different, you simply plan for a horn to be at the inside corner. Two swag butt together behind the horn. As for installing pole in a corner, this is covered in our Manual Set, page 5B-5.
ARCH WINDOW
Can I use this pattern for an arched window?
No, it will not adapt to an arch shape.
