How can I alter the swags?
We cannot give you instructions to alter the swag in width or depth. To go beyond the sizes given would require the shape and size of the patterns and the pleat angles to change. There is no formula for a quick fix.

Can I alter the jabot?
Instructions are included to alter the jabot.

Can I alter the swag droop area?
No, pleat angles would have to change. You can make a separate “scoop” shape fabric piece to tack behind the swag. It will look like a part of the swag.

I used this pattern for one 52” swag. My droop is 7 ½”, which is fine for that window. The pattern info sheet states droop area is 4” – 6” from bottom of 2” pole. Now I am considering using the pattern for multiple swags – 3, 37” swags and 2, 41” swags for 2 different windows. Can I obtain a 4” droop with these sizes of swags, especially the 37” swags?
The swag patterns are consistent with the droop size stated in the instruction book (within a ½” range). The droop area is not adjustable. If you got a deeper droop, you did something wrong.

Can I use a smaller pole than 2”? I am thinking a smaller pole will increase the droop.
You can use any size pole. Naturally a pole smaller than 2” will give you a deeper droop area.

I am interested in making a pole swag for a window that is 160” wide. I want to put long panels on each end and not jabots. Which pole swag pattern do you advise? Are there any limits with a window this wide?
The width of your window is not a factor. Both the Basic Pole Swag and the Designer Pole Swag could be used. Simply substitute side panels instead of jabots. The Designer Pole Swag is more structured and controlled than the Basic Pole Swag. The Basic Pole Swag is extremely casual.

I do not plan to use jabots with the swags. I want to use full length panels, almost 3 yards in length, either gathered or pleated like the jabot. Can I attach the curtain panel to a pole with Velcro®? Would a second rod behind the pole for panels be preferable and/or possible?
Since you don’t have jabots, attach the panel to the pole with Velcro®.

I need to install pinch pleat sheers under this treatment. Should the top of the sheers show or not show through the opening of each swag?
There is no set rule for this. It’s a matter of choice. I’ve done it both ways. Take the sheers all the way up, only if you need to hide the view behind the swags.

I don’t like placing A to A on the Designer Pole Swag. Would it be preferable to cut on the lengthwise grain and eliminate all seams? I am familiar with your chapter on fabric bulk in the Designer’s Digest and Workroom Manual. If the face fabric is light to medium weight, do I need to worry about a bulk problem or is this information referring to usage of heavier face fabric?
Cut on the lengthwise unless you have a strong upright design on your fabric. It will help if you cut the lining on the bias. It will still be good to eliminate bulk in the pleat areas.

Is there a way, when utilizing the jabots to the front, to have a return that accommodates the finial by wrapping it around the pole to the wall, fitting the finial through an opening in that piece of fabric return?
You can wrap the return around the end of the pole and to the wall if you punch a hole in the return for the finial screw to enter. For a hollow pole you can’t do this. The only other way is a custom “cut out” so the return can fit under the pole. Instructions for a custom “cut out” are in our “Manual Collection”.

I have done and will be doing jobs that require joining several poles together. The dowel screws that are provided for joining poles are not sufficient. This creates a problem in the installation process. What is your advice for this problem?
Connector screws are usually used. Try adding wood glue with the screw. Do not move the pole until the glue dries. For large, heavy poles drill deep enough into the pole enough to insert a ½” round wood dowel (also glue).

I have problems calculating where swag overlaps will be on a pole. What is your method for calculating overlaps when using multiple pole swag treatments?
Page 1D-1 in our “Manual Collection” explains why the overlap size must be consistent on pole swags. Our charts on pages 1D-2 and 1D-3 are for a 10” overlap only. These charts will not work for other overlap sizes. The formula to use for figuring swag sizes for a 10” overlap is given in patterns 9237 and 9238. How and where to mark the pole for placement is also given.

I am interested in this pattern and have two windows – one that measures 75 x 47 and the other measures 105 x 68. Would I use 30”, 42” or 54” swag width and how many swags would I use per window? I would like them to match in swag size. I could use two swags on the smaller window and three on the larger, etc.
Our Designer’s Digest and Workroom Manual is a good resource for figuring swag widths. Pages 1D-1 through 1D-3 give you swag charts you could pick from.

75” 2 swags @ 42”
105” 4 swags @ 34”

with the chart you could see that:

75” 2 swags @ 42”
105” 3 swags @ 42” would be best.

I am using pattern 9238 (24” depth) and it calls for piecing together the swag pattern, since the whole pattern piece won’t fit on 54” fabric. Will this look bad? Won’t the seam show when the swag is hung?
Probably, but you don’t have another choice if your fabric isn’t wide enough. If it is a bias cut, try to piece on the end that will be hidden by another swag or jabot.

My window called for swags that are 42”, but I felt I should have more “play”, so I made them 44”. Now there is too much slack under the pole. What is wrong?
When you make a swag 44” and attach it to the pole as 42”, it will have a deeper droop area, as well as hang deeper. The reverse is true for a swag that is placed smaller than it’s intended size.